The cultural frame I had of Japan when I visited as a tourist was that of 1990s Japan layered over a vague history of 1960s street photography. In the Australian imagination Tokyo was a place of sophistication and wealth, good taste and cultural authenticity, a postmodern culture, and a reputation for deferential hospitality. A fantasy land of good old fashioned Orientalism.
I was aware that Japan’s economy had never regained the growth of the pre-l980s boom years, and that after the asset bubble burst in the 1980s, there was the three “lost decades”. The images of Japan that spring to mind are of the bustling, neon-splashed streets of Tokyo and Osaka, towering walls of steel and glass, teeming pedestrians on the footpath along with green mountains and cherry blossoms and Zen temples and tea houses. Oh, and the Japan of Claude Monet, Vincent Van Gogh and Frank Lloyd Wright.
I didn’t know about Japan’s image factory: the post-1995 otaku culture and the gaming subculture of the 1990s. I wasn’t aware of Japan’s embrace of peak tourism with the low yen; an emerging unease amongst Japanese of the over- tourism with their rolling suitcases (36 million in 2024); the demographic collapse, the disappearing, somewhat unsustainable, countryside villages, traditionalism as a culture industry, the izakaya bars, and the multitude of the guest workers looking after the tourists. Japan grows poorer and more existentially uneasy whilst China is the new hegemon.
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